Ikkagoyo, innovative kaiseki at Amoy Street!

 ~Invited Session~

iKKAGOYO, inspired by a Japanese proverb that translates to ‘one flower opening up to five petals and will bear fruit soon’, is the latest kaiseki restaurant along Amoy Street that opened on 21 March 2023. Helming the kitchen is Chef-Owner Mitsutaka Sakamoto, 42, from Hyogo, Japan, who has conjured an exquisite and innovative menu that celebrates the finest inseason ingredients of Japan. iKKAGOYO aims to deliver a one-of-a-kind experience and kando – a Japanese term that describes the moment when one’s expectations are exceeded – to each and every diner through a synergy of meticulously-curated ingredients, Chef Sakamoto’s culinary prowess and wholehearted, inimitable omotenashi hospitality – the spirit of providing sincere customer service.

I tried the prix fixe menu ($338++ per person) of 12 intricate courses showcases Chef Sakamoto’s finesse and flair, all presented harmoniously on beautiful tableware.

Sea and Land… (Hirakai, Yuba, Rape Flower, Hyuga Natsu)

Rapeseed flower mixed with ikura-paste is used to signify the beginning of spring, along with silky yuba (beancurd skin) and hyuganatsu (a citrus fruit originally grown in Miyazaki). The course also consists of grilled tairagai (Japanese pen shell), which is delightfully subtle and just the right chewiness to start the meal, and kuruma ebi (Japanese tiger prawn), which rounds off a fresh start.

Hakurakusei Junmai Ginjo

A great food-pairing sake, it is very crisp and light with pear and passion fruit notes, and is a soft and pleasing sake to drink with seafood.

Respect

A hearty course to help warm the belly in preparation for the rest of the meal. Comprising uruchimai (Japanese short-grain rice) with a consistency like congee. Topped with briny clams and lightly-grilled sakura bud – only available in spring.

Golden soup stock

Kinmedai immersed in a wholesome ogon dashi, or ‘golden broth’. The broth is prepared using prized Rishiri kelp along with freshly shaved katsuobushi (skipjack tuna flakes). Leeks and minty kinome leaves are used to perfectly balance out the umami flavours of the broth.

Gift from the sea

First up, a buttery-fleshed Spanish mackerel. Its aromatic and crisp aburi-style skin is achieved by pressing piping hot charcoal directly on the fish. A zesty dollop of fresh onions marinated with ponzu, then aged for a week; as well as shaved horse radish and myoga or Japanese ginger, provide the dish with a burst of robust flavours. 

Raw maguro chutoro is topped with kombu shoyu and gold flakes. An orb of daikon incorporated with white wine ponzu vinegar is served on the side, together with freshly-grated wasabi.

Japanese traditional ‘hassun’

Setting the theme for a kaiseki meal, ankimo (monkfish) liver is served after a painstaking two-hour process – it is first chilled on ice before steaming over dashi. An equally tedious process is the cold and enticing spear squid stuffed together with its own innards – Chef Sakamoto removes and cleans all the innards before stuffing them back into the squid’s body. A side of spinach covered with flavorful miso and sesame seeds completes the course.

Kunisaki Junmai

A young and fresh sake, this has a toasted grassy finish to it. Very interesting with cold seafood.

Today’s field

A colorful medley of wild, seasonal vegetables from the Shizuoka prefecture. As the vegetables are cooked in varying methods, they each have a different texture. They are then garnished with grains of kombu and drizzled with kombu shoyu.

Specialty

A contrasting course that showcases French ingredients: luscious almond cream cheese, freshly grated black truffle and sprinkle of homemade truffle oil powder, combined with glistening eel from Oigawa, all folded in a buckwheat flour wrap.

Traditional

An alternative take on tempura, this is a savory and masterfully executed course. Placed atop a smooth lotus root puree is a crispy, deep-fried lotus root rolled in rice, and finished with sweet potato chips and freshly-grated cured mullet roe.

Harmony

A simple yet refreshing course of chilled somen immersed in dashi. Topped with Hokkaido bafun uni, and seaweed.

Japan’s treasure

A luxurious dish with Japanese A5 wagyu cooked shabushabu style in a katsuo dashi. Inspired by yakiniku, the perfectly medium-rare beef is served with a raw egg yolk, and a moreish sesame vinegar sauce on the side.

Aged Kimoto 45 Junmai Daiginjo Kinmi Sake

A rich and bold sake, this one has almost yogurt-like flavors and is dry on the palate. A great pairing with red meat dishes.

Culture

Katsuobushi (skipjack tuna flakes) and raw egg don with soy sauce on the side; maguro sashimi don topped with fresh wasabi; a sizzling bowl of gyusuji (beef tendon) and beef brisket in a soy-based broth with rice on the side.

 

Nature’s blessings

Amazonian cacao cream, and a handmade shiroi warabi mochi made up of coconut milk which is served with walnuts and coconut milk powder. A delightful finish to the meal.